AUGUSTA, GA - According to Roman mythology, Veritas was the goddess of truth. The phrase “in vino veritas” means “in wine, truth,” referring to the fact that people seem to become uninhibited and tell what they really think when they drink alcohol.

During La Maison’s recent 22nd anniversary celebration, over 100 people enjoyed 30 different wines with food pairings, plus a spectrum of wine and culinary “treats.” Specially created for the event was an incredible square ice sculpture with two portals that served chilled vodka.

The “truth” heard throughout the evening was crystal clear — dining is much more than excellent food. It is the ambiance and the sense of history that make it enjoyable.

La Maison’s soft-colored walls hold 22 years worth of culinary events plus the happy people that have celebrated them. The high ceilings, fireplaces and wine cabinetry linger with sophisticated romance. “We have worked to preserve the romance in this 150-year-old house, along with the romance of classic dishes, flavors and techniques that instill fond memories,” says Chef/Owner Heinz Sowinski. “We want people to be inspired.”

Downtown’s familiar painted lady has gotten a facelift for the occasion: a new front awning, new paint and a wrought-iron gate leads diners to the broad front doorway that opens into the foyer. It is breathtaking and relaxing all at once — instantly you feel at home and sheltered.

“Marriage is a word that comes to mind,” says Catherine Respess, who was recently appointed as Sowinski’s apprentice. “We want everyone to be part of the family; come into this beautiful home and always feel welcome.”

One of the highlights of the anniversary celebration was Sowinski’s personal favorite childhood comfort food, Kase spaetzle. Prepared for the occasion and common to Austrian, German and Swiss cuisine, the tender morsels seemed like a cross between a noodle and a dumpling and were sautéed with butter then finished with Swiss cheese (kase) and caramelized onions.

Though the event marked a has special occasion, La Maison has held themed wine and food pairings since 1993, in which those who attend always learn something new, try something new, meet someone new and leave contented. As with the anniversary celebration, at the monthly events Sowinski mingles comfortably with his guests throughout the evening, sharing his knowledge, insight and passion for his craft with charm and a contagious smile. Each pairing features seven courses with wine and champagne.

Not only are these events great for guests, they also serve as outlets for the chef’s creative muses. Some of the dishes are a little edgy and experimental and often lead to dishes that end up on the restaurants’ menus.

“We want to help people eat healthier, fresher, high-quality foods,” says Sowinski. He added that he’d like to help diners expand their horizons. Hence the dinner menu, which features choices including ostrich carpaccio, tuna nachos, filet mignon, duck, chicken Normandy, and signature dishes such as wild salmon en croute de pommes de terre (pecan-wood smoked salmon in potato crust with champagne dill sauce).

For lighter fare, Veritas Wine Bar inside the restaurant is a place where you can share an appetizer, have wine by the glass or half-glass, order from the full-service, nicely stocked bar every evening from 5 p.m. until close. It serves as a transition into the evening or a wonderful close to a long day.

A common thread for the Sowinski family is community.

“We are a family business, community oriented and passionate about downtown, the arts and local charities,” says Sowinski, whose wife and all three daughters work or have worked together at La Maison. His son-in-law and one-time employee, Chef Manuel Verney-Carron, now owns Manuel’s Bread Café.

“What continues to inspire me is the people who come through the door,” Sowinski says, describing a particular evening when a little girl asked him to make Bananas Foster. Of course, he obliged.

“I still make classic dishes by request — I think, ‘Hey, let me know what you like and I’ll do it,’” he says. “Our guests need to be happy — the full experience is our goal.”

Always on the cutting edge, Sowinski does not rest on the accolades of a business that has stayed open as long as his has.

“It is important that our menu specials are kept fresh and innovative. I constantly read recipes of other chefs and I get excited — few people know how to pair wine with food,” he says. “I think people love to be guided and learn. I want to share knowledge with others who love food.”

Sowinski’s passion is coupled with a thirst for knowledge, especially about wines. Wines by Heinz will offer their extensive wine selection to the public from in-house shelves or by special order.

“When you come in, if you enjoy the wine, then you can purchase at a special retail price,” he says. “Or if you attend a pairing and find a wine you love — we can order it for you.”

La Maison has over 5,000 bottles of wine in-house and have been recognized by Wine Spectator for its excellence for eight consecutive years. “We have the most extensive and best wine list in town beside Augusta National.”

“My enthusiasm is La Maison. I love to cook and it rubs off, I cannot hide it,” Sowinski says. “I get excited about taking a reservation because I can make a difference in someone’s night — I’ll do whatever it takes to make it better, better, better.”

La Maison
404 Telfair St.
706-722-4805
lamaisonontelfair.com